1 - Bearing
2 - Voith damping flywheel
3 - Flywheel ring gear
4 - Spacer ring
5 - Intermediate plate
6 - Clutch plate
7 - Clutch plate
8 - Pressure plate
9 - Thrust bearing
10 - Pressure plate cover
11 - Sleeve flange
12 - Thrust bearing support bush
13 - Clutch shaft
14 - Bush positioning plate
15 - Bush
16 - Clutch bell housing
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS A DUAL DISC REPLACEMENT GUIDE!!
Before we move on with this step-by-step clutch replacement guide,
I'll tell you some facts about the clutch plates.
The intermediate plate (#5) should have a thickness of 9,0mm.
The driven plates (#6 and 7) when new, without a load on them, should be 7,25mm thick.
The wear limit of 0,8mm means that if the plate measures less than 6,45mm thick without load, it is beyond the limit and should be replaced or relined to the original thickness.
If you compress th edriven plate under a load of 535daN, a new plate should have the thickness of 6,90mm, and a used plate should have thickness no less than 6,10mm (6,90mm - 0,80mm)
Part 1 - Removing the clutch.
Removing the clutch on the Ferrari 348 is surprisingly easy:
1. Placing the car on jack stands, but remember to chock the front wheels to prevent the car from moving whilst on the jacks, then leave the car in neutral with handbrake off. (pic#1)
2. Disconnect the battery. (pic#2)
3. Release the wire for the number plate light, US models will also require the release of the wires leading to the tuning signals (pic#3)
4. Remove the rear wheels.
* Removal of the rear bumper. Please note, that removal of the rear bumper is NOT stricktly necessary, although it will afford you extra space to work.
5. Remove the 4 screws securing each of the lower inner wheel arch liners on both sides (pic#4).
6. Remove the 4 main screws securing the rear bumper, 2 on each side (pic#5) and 2 on each side right above the exhaust exit.
7. Carefully remove the rear bumper and store it safely, obtaining the assistance from a friend when removing the rear bumper will make life easier.(pic#6)
8. Removal of the lower exhaust assembly. Remove the 4 nuts connecting the lower half of the exhaust to the upper section, these nuts will most likely be very tight.
Seperate the two parts of the exhaust. Again its a good idea to seek some assistance as its quite heavy (pic#7-8-9)
9. Removal of the clutch bell housing.
Before you start working on the clutch bell housing you need to remove the small vent plate underneath the bell housing (pic#10-11-12)
TIP: Remember to clean the parts properly whilst you're in there.
10. Remove the 3 nuts securing the starter motor to the upper right section of the bell housing.
Free the starter from the bell housing, although there is no need to remove the unit completely (pic#13-14)
11. Now you can undo the remaining 6 nuts around the bell housing.
NB: Do NOT touch the 4 nuts on the prancing horse plate in the middle of the bell housing as these are connected to the flywheel. This will be explained later.
All nuts securing the bell housing to the gearbox should now have been removed although the 2 peices may be stuck together, which means you might have to pry it apart VERY gently. There are ventelation holes on each side and underneath, into which a suitable pry bar can be inserted.
Once the bell housing is completely loose GENTLY pull it off the shaft and remember its HEAVY, so help from a friend will be in handy at this point too. (pic#15)
Tip: Once the bell housing are removed from the gearbox, it might be a good idea to clean insde the housing part that is still connected to the gearbox.
Now, move on to chapter 2 from the Main Menu.
All material are copyright to webmaster.