348 Clutch Replacement Part 4 The Flywheel

This chapter will have 3 seperat parts in order to maintain 
the step-by-step guiding line!

Part 1 - Removing and cleaning the flywheel.

The only thing left in the bell housing now is the flywheel. Turn the bell housing around and you'll see a little plate with the prancing horse on. Undo the 4 nuts in order to gain access to the huge flywheel retaining nut. This bolt may well be extremely tight. (during re-assembly remember to tighten it to the correct torque using a suitable torque wrench)
Once the flywheel nut is loose press the flywheel off the rest of the bell housing, it may be stuck so this might need a little effort. Only the flywheel will be pressed out which should leave the bearing behind in the bell housing. Now clean the bell housing and the flywheel assembly properly (pic#1-2-3)







Part 2 - Opening and cleaning the flywheel.

Opening the flywheel assembly can be a minor problem, as its no edges for you to hold on to.

1. Put the big flywheel nut back in and remove the 6 nuts which hold together the completly assembly (pic#1)



2. Hang up the assembly and remove the 2 filler plugs from the center, use a drift bolt and GENTLY tap on both sides with a hammer, after a while the assembly will slowly start to come apart (pic#2-3)

Tip: Have someone to help you catch the flywheel as it opens, so it wont fall to the ground and substain any damage, remember these parts are VERY expensive, so using your head as well as your hands might be a good idea.





3. Once you've managed to open the flywheel you'll dicover a total mess, so a good clean is required here (pic#4-5)





4. The flywheel assembly contains 64 parts which need to be PROPERLY cleaned before you can start with the re-greasing procedure.(pic#6)
 


Tip 1: Before beginning the re-greasing procedure, temporarily put the flywheel cover back on and make sure that you can enter ALL the 6 bolts. (it will only fit in one position) Then mark the position with a pen (pic#7). This will free you from having problems when you're ready to re-assembly the flywheel.

Tip 2: Secure ALL the 6 bolts from underneath using a piece of tape. This will prevent the washers/cylinders moving from their locations during the re-greasing procedure (pic#8)





Part 3 - Preparing the flywheel for re-greasing.

1. Now you need to place most of the tiny parts back into their original positions, so begin with the 6 tiny O-rings, then the 6 washers/spacers (pic#1-2)





2. Now, you're actually ready to re-grease the bottom of the disc, but first I'll show you with a dry flywheel how to put it together, because there are many small peices which can be hard to see where to go if the bottom are re-greased. 

3. Place the 2 brown banana shaped plates into position, they'll only fit one way (pic#1)



4. Adjust the center assembly with the 2 gray metal plates, make sure the 2 metal plates are resting on the tiny tags on the center assembly (pic#2-3)
Now put the complete center assembly in the center of the flywheel and place the 6 cylinders over the bolt holes (pic#4-5)









There are 2 types of springs, short and long. The long springs will have the "C" shaped brown spring holders, while the short springs will have the "L" shaped brown spring holders (pic#6-7)





5. Put the 4 sets of springs into their correct position (pic#8)
6. Put in the small aluminium squares in their holes (pic#9) dont forget to put the little spring in between.
7. Squeeze in the 4 "C" shaped brown plastic clips behind the springs (pic#10-11)
8. Finally, put on the 6 remaining washers over the bolts (pic"12)

 









Now you're done with the "dry setup" of the flywheel, and you need to revesre Part 3 in order to start the re-greasing drocedure, so remove everything again except for the 6 O-rings and washers from the beginning of Part 3. Put in and secure the 6 nuts so the washers wont move from their position, pic#8 from Part 2 will do the trick.

Now, move on to chapter 5 from the Main Menu.




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Last Updated, June 15.08.

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